Don’t Compromise Today, For Tomorrow.

We don’t believe that you need to sacrifice the aesthetic, quality or design of a product for its sustainable or ethical standards; be it clothing, candles, furniture or moisturiser. We curate our list of brands based on this belief and in doing so, consider each step of an item’s journey in our brand selection process. Use the above navigation to review how we best judge the brands we curate and share with you. Making sure you don’t have to compromise today, for tomorrow.

Materials

Each item you buy is made from a material, be that cotton, plastic, wool or one of the many other recyclable alternatives out there. These materials come from somewhere and the processes involved in farming, collecting or making these materials impacts the environment significantly. In fact, because it often takes a lot of natural resources, this step can have the highest environmental impact of any step in the development of clothing. Cotton, for example, contributes excessively to water scarcity and wool to greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions*. Because of this, we review the brand’s raw material usage closely, we look at how transparent they are with this and seek the source of the materials (farms or providers of the materials) to ensure they have been picked or farmed fairly. We also pursue brands that use materials with limited environmental impact and those that maintain the highest standards in animal welfare. There are international standards that outline the quality and fairness of these raw materials, so we judge where we can but employ these too. Here are some examples:

- Five Freedoms of Animal Welfare – this states animals should have the freedom “to stand up, lie down, turn around, groom themselves and stretch their limbs

- The Leather Working Group – have developed audit protocols designed to certify leather manufacturers according to their environmental standards and performance capabilities

- RWS-certified (Responsible Wool Standard) non-mulesed wool – certify that the sheep have not been mulesed

- The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification (applies to cotton and other raw textile materials, you’ll see “GOTS certified cotton” – means those with the certification have limited the use of toxic bleaches, dyes and other chemicals during the production process of textiles

- FAIRTRADE Certified Cotton Mark and Cotton Programme – means the cotton is produced without using the most harmful pesticides, child labour or forced labour. It gives workers in cotton fields fairer wages and working conditions


*Gray, S. “Mapping clothing impacts in Europe: the environmental cost.” WRAP: Banbury, UK (2017).

Production

The Process

Once the raw materials are harvested, collected, picked or made, they go through multiple processes and many hands before they are ready to be placed on the shelves (virtual or physical). We look at the processes that brands follow to ensure that every step of the journey is conscious and fair for everyone involved – and there are lots of processes (from the sewing, spinning, knitting, weaving, garment finishing, dyeing and wet processing to tanneries, embroidering, printing to the fabric finishing, dye-houses and laundries- the list goes on). We also look to see if a brand knows who makes their items (and every fixture and fitting on them).
Looking at these steps, you can see how much opportunity for waste and exploitation there is. But, we have selected original brands that acknowledge this challenge and look to induce positive change. Focusing on waste and reducing the negative environmental impact, brands employ tactics such as using natural dyes from flowers, food waste and other natural ingredients to limit water pollution, whilst developing clothing out of recycled and recyclable materials to ensure that no materials go to waste or are wasted during production. Of course, there are further international standards that can be met, too:

- ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) – this one speaks for itself, it judges and regulates the discharge of hazardous waste in the process

- OEKO-TEX® – these standards evaluate harmful substances in textiles and leathers, they’re an agreement of standards for organisations to: implement environmentally friendly production processes in the long term, improve health and safety and to promote socially responsible working conditions at production sites.

- Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Certification – this is a rating system reviewing energy efficiency at every level. Factories have to provide evidence of reduced energy consumption throughout all their processes to receive certification


The People

With these processes come people; the possibility of exploitation and the need for fair treatment, from fair wages to fair conditions. It’s important to focus on this, and the brands we select are all conscious and ethical in their treatment of the human beings that make our clothes. We also look out for brands who seek education and accreditation such as the Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) certification, an analysis and promotion of safe, lawful, humane and ethical manufacturing around the world.

Further yet, some brands have lasting relationships with their factory owners, carrying out their own auditing to ensure the kindest and fairest practices across the board, listing these on their websites with details on the factory and the factory owner themselves. This greater transparency leads to greater accountability, something that seems simple, but is extremely novel in the world today.

That doesn’t mean that if the factory isn’t listed, we don’t consider the brand, but we do try to inspect as much as possible, because it’s worthwhile digging a little bit.


The Tiers

After talking about the manufacturing process, it is worthwhile mentioning “Tier 1 to Tier 4 companies” what they are and how they are involved in the making of your clothes – hearing of “tiers” may be news to you, but it’s good to know, we’ll break it down simply.

Brand’s may have their own manufacturers across the entire process (which is rare) or utilise what is known as Tier 1, Tier 2, Tier 3 or Tier 4 companies to manufacture goods. This is not unethical, nor does it have to be unsustainable. Each factory from Tier 1 to Tier 4 focus on a specific stage of the development process to become the best in their area of expertise. Each of the factories are able to focus on their own role, they have specialised equipment and the most skilled workers and they’re also experts in adhering to the specific regulations for that role. Below is a list of what each tier likely focuses on (this is focused on clothing as an example)*.

Overall brand – Logistics, marketing, selling
Tier 1 – Apparel manufacturing
Tier 2 – Textile embroidery and cutting
Tier 3 – Cotton Weaving and Dyeing
Tier 4 – Cotton farming

A lot of brands only disclose information on their Tier 1 factories (brands you’ll definitely know) and sometimes don’t even know where or who their Tier 2 – Tier 4 factories are (Tier 1 factories are supplied by Tier 2 factories, and Tier 2 by Tier 3, and so on, but because the brand only “employs” the Tier 1 factory, they don’t take accountability for any other part of the chain). This is commonplace in the industry, and it’s actually an easy way to ignore responsibility for the impact that clothing has, socially and environmentally.

We fortunately work with a lot of brands that know their factories inside out, have personal relationships with the owners, visit the factories regularly to ensure they are socially and environmentally up to standards and list all details of these on their website, maintaining traceability and transparency across the supply chain.


*Mettler, P., and M. Ashida. “Supply chains in the clothing industry: A house of cards?!.” A report on the opportunities and risks in the supply chains of textile and apparel companies. J. Safra Sarasin Sustainable Investment Research, Basel (2014).

Packaging

Now, packaging the product when you’ve made your choice is another area we can better, single-use plastic is just that, single-use, it wraps the clothes and can never be used again, ever. Luckily, a lot of the brands we have selected have simple solutions to tackle this. Biodegradable packaging is a favourite, as is the use of tote bags from compostable and biodegradable fibres. You’ll see who uses what.

Again with all of this, we’ll list the practices in the item description, but specialist organisations like the Think Green Initiative (TGI) audit organisations to confirm any sustainability claims, so you don’t just have to hear it from us.

Delivery

Now, delivering the garments from the factories to the shop or from the shop to you is a sticking point, it’s going to have to arrive somehow, and likely there will be some form of fossil fuel burning and an amount of carbon emissions into the atmosphere. It’s more or less unavoidable. However, measures are taken to offset these carbon emissions. We see brands enlist a variety of strategies, from reducing the amount of air freight and ensure sizing is correct to reduce returns, to working with organisations that plant trees as part of “carbon offsetting” or going the extra mile and measuring & listing the exact amount of CO2 emitted across the process. Better yet, we see brands ensure that practices are Carbon Positive – carrying out activities that go beyond Carbon Neutral and capture more emissions that are given off*.

Again with all of this, we’ll list the practices in the item description, but specialist organisations like the Think Green Initiative (TGI) audit organisations to confirm any sustainability claims, so you don’t just have to hear it from us.

*Obviously, Carbon Positive and carbon capture is great, but it isn’t everything. The earth has a limited number of resources and we can’t sustain the level of consumption we have at the moment forever; we’d just run out of resources.

Use

Guarantees & Maintenance

Once you have the item, you wear it, hopefully for a long time. Ideally, it’s a staple you’ve consciously purchased knowing that you won’t need to buy anything like it again, reducing your consumption and our impact on the environment. However, your clothes get worn, tear, buttons fall off and may be deemed “broken”. Happily, we see brands now offering lifetime guarantees or ongoing “maintenance” on their clothing, so if anything does happen, they’ll repair or replace it, meaning you truly choose a product for life.


Taking Care

The brands make the clothes, they’re producing the item and sharing that with you, so, they have a responsibility to ensure that every step of the process of getting those items to you is as socially and environmentally responsible as possible, they also have a responsibility for the clothes when you have them and at the end of the cycle.
However, we, the very people buying and wearing the clothes, have a responsibility too. After raw material harvesting, personal clothing care has the biggest environmental impact across the lifecycle of an item. The water, energy and chemical use in washing, drying and ironing your clothes, as well as to microplastics that can be shed into the environment have a huge impact*. So, we need to take better care and brands should provide better care information. Some of the brands we have selected provide better information on how to reduce the environmental impact of an item, they share instructions on care labels or information when an item is received, and there may be step-by-step repair and care guidelines on the brand’s websites.

By sharing more details on the products as well as greater care instructions, you can limit the impact of a product when it’s in your possession. Furthermore, the materials used could have properties that you should know about, helping you to care for your items better. For example, did you know wool has self-cleaning properties, therefore not requiring as many washes? There are also finishes on your clothing that reduce the build-up of bacteria, further reducing the need for so many washes.
The way we care for a product whilst we still have it is super important, and we hope you’ll use or wear the item as much as you can reducing the “fast-fashion” impact. Of course, we have to be realistic, trends evolve, clothes wear, winter comes, and as conscious we are trying to be by reducing the amount we buy, we will buy more clothes. So, what happens to the old clothes when you’re finding space for new ones?


*Sajn, Nikolina. “Environmental impact of the textile and clothing industry: What consumers need to know.” Brussels: European Parliamentary Research Service.[Google Scholar](2019).

Disposal

Recycled

Products made from “non-virgin” by-products and materials help close a loop in the industry. There are materials such as Econyl® or nucyclTM that use ocean plastic, discarded fishnets or landfill waste as their “raw material”. This means they don’t depend on making or harvesting new materials as they utilise waste from existing processes. These materials can often be recycled once worn, aiding in a more circular loop.


Regenerative

By managing cattle and raw materials in such a way that mimics the natural movement of herd animals, farmers and harvesters allow for the rest and regrowth of crops and feeds, leading to healthier soil and better food for livestock. As these materials sequester carbon from the atmosphere, storing it in the plant and the ground, they make the material impact more environmentally positive, more productive and ensure a greater resistance to both drought and heavy rain.


Cradle to Cradle

The “Cradle to Cradle®” concept is based on the knowledge that nature (without humans) does not produce “waste” – every by-product of an organic reaction can be used for one purpose or another. In the fashion industry, cradle to cradle means products are designed and manufactured in such a way that the raw materials and ingredients used can be turned into nutrients and biodegraded or composted at the end of the cycle after they have been utilised or consumed, rather than dropped into landfill waste.


Circular

As described, circular means complete neutrality of what goes into a process and what comes out, an aim for the total removal of waste and pollution from the entire industry whilst maximising the utility of present resources. This is truly the only way to ensure a stable “future” for all, meaning we don’t use or waste or expel anything that we can sequester and use once again.

Responsibility

Finally, we look at the organisation as a whole and the partnerships they form: from ensuring there’s a “Chief Sustainability Officer” to publishing a sustainability report, there’s lots that can be done. Many of the brands we select have Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) initiatives or partner with organisations driving positive impact throughout the industry. We see school’s being funded, environmental clean-up initiatives being sponsored, more trees being planted, and football clubs being established. A lot of the brands we share don’t just do this every so often, it’s woven into the very fabric of their mission, and we champion that.